June 1, 2018 Day #16. Belorado to San Juan de Ortega

I made a decision early in the morning that would impact my entire day. There is a service available that transports backpacks to the next destination. I took advantage of this service today. There is a mountain ahead of me and the climb is quick and steep. My backpack weighs about 15 pounds and the thought of climbing to 1200 m with it wasn’t very appealing. For the purists on the trail using this service is viewed as cheating and it costs 5 euros as well. But I did it. I sent my backpack over that mountain in somebody’s minivan! Best decision I’ve made to date on the Camino. So that’s part of the back story for today’s journey. The other issue was my hat. I love my hat but it hasn’t proven itself to be very durable. My hat does not protect me from the sun. This Spanish sun permeates everything I own! My delicate still pasty white from the winter skin is trying to figure out how to coexist with the sun here. It affects me even under cloud cover. So, my ears are fried and peeling! The hat has also been affected by the soggy mornings and afternoon rains. As the days go by it started to go positively Amish. I thought perhaps it would recover but the next phase – in spite of all my reshaping efforts- was reminiscent of the Scarecrow in Wizard of Oz. I set out on June 1st without a backpack or a hat. Just an extra pair of socks, sunscreen and my hiking poles. I felt like I was sailing! Off I went in search of coffee and croissant which I found quickly and enjoyed. The morning walk was so pleasant and easy. I traveled through beautiful fields and the path was like walking at Antrim. The weather held although rain was forecast for most of the day. I passed through a couple of quaint villages and finally arrived in Villafranca at lunchtime. I carbed up at the local bar which was full of pilgrims. Many were discussing whether to stay overnight or take on the mountain. I of course was already committed by sending my belongings ahead. Just as I took off I caught sight of a hat in a store window and I thought maybe I should check it out. It fit and I liked the color so I bought it. Second best decision of the day! Up the path I started and it was challenging indeed. I was so happy I wasn’t lugging 15 extra pounds on my back! The scenery was changing. My ears were popping. Up up up! It was beautiful up there but very different. For awhile everything was so scrubby. After leveling out I found myself walking through forests that were currently being harvested. There was a wide dirt road with large logs stacked every so often. There were deep tire tracks and occasionally rocks and mud but nothing too difficult. I was happy we were level again. The first rain began warmly and gently and coming from behind. It was rather pleasant at first because I was very hot and sweaty. Then it cut loose and I got drenched. Regardless of my hat and rain jacket and quick dry pants I was soaked. Then it stopped and I started to dry out. An hour later a thunderstorm rolled into the area. I’m up there with nothing but trees – not a good idea. And I’m carrying two hiking poles that I’m beginning to imagine as lightning rods! I think this lasted 30 minutes and then it was over and the sun came out. The dirt road was really muddy by now but I pressed on. I trudged in the mud for probably another hour. I knew I was close to my destination however nothing was in view yet. And guess what? Another storm came roaring in – this time I was walking into it! It thundered and lightning all around. The wind was wild and then came the hail! Seriously! It was the size of peas and I just kept going until it was the size of marbles. I took cover under a big bush – maybe a lilac – and stayed until we were back to peas and then I went for it. I was 10 minutes from the monastery where I was staying as it turned out. I was so happy to see the church looming in the distance! After I checked in I was elated with the bonus of a dry backpack. Into the shower and into dry clothes and a sweatshirt and warm dry socks! They were serving a pilgrim’s meal and I ate it all! Garlic soup, mixed green salad, pork chops, French fries, pasta with tomato sauce and yogurt for dessert. Off to bed. 15 miles today. A mountain. A rainstorm. A thunderstorm. A hailstorm. I am so grateful for a hot shower, a hot meal and a warm bed. Buen Camino!